When curating a ranking of London’s finest dining spots, one might anticipate well-known high-end venues. Yet, nestled prominently among these gastronomic giants is a unpretentious salonu located in a outlying area of north London.
This small Turkish eatery, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth top restaurant in the city by a respected gastronomic guide. The recognition has left the family completely surprised.
“I’m completely astonished,” remarks a owner’s son, referring to his parents’ dedication that led to their humble place securing such a lofty spot on a notable 99-strong list.
This little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular spot, has maintained much of its earlier charm. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking show, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” comments the owner.
However, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this establishment certainly succeeds. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a moist, juicy texture.
The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in gradually. As the savoury mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is rolled neatly inside.
The wrap is typically eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.
There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.
When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in less syrup than usual, giving it a deeper, more aromatic and less sickly profile.
Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.
Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, equivalent tasting menus at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.
The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.
“I believe what is paramount is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”
This sentiment is shared by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a position of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to show what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.
Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am very happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.
Many restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.
“My mum would be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would visit to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.
This restaurant’s recognition is bound to resonate beyond its own walls. “I think a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the greater importance of this culinary triumph.
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